Experience the Night in a Alpine Mountain Hut with a Dog – Chalet d’Arbarétan

A few weeks ago I wrote about everything I’d learned preparing for a first night in an unguarded alpine shelter with Simba. This is the report back.

Before we get into the trip itself: yes, Simba was allowed in this cabane. If you’re wondering how dog policies work in Alpine refuges (and why the answer isn’t always straightforward), I’ve written a separate guide covering the rules and what to expect.

Getting to Chalet d’Arbarétan

To reach the trailhead, you’ll drive a few kilometres along a route forestière – a narrow forest road with bends and two-way traffic that requires a bit of attention. Worth noting: these roads are often closed in winter depending on snowfall, so check access before you plan a trip outside the main season. The parking area at the trailhead itself is compact.

The walk itself is genuinely pleasant. Around 300 metres of elevation gain over roughly 3 kilometres, a but steeper at the beginning, but quickly turns into gentle traverse. We were at the hut in about an hour and a half. It’s a good introductory mountain hike, enough to feel like you’ve earned it, not so much that you arrive wrecked (especially with a full backpack). The path is well-signed throughout. You won’t get lost. One important note: mobile coverage disappears for most of the route.

We went in the middle of June, during the week, and didn’t meet many people on the trail. That changes later in the season. During weekends and the summer holidays, expect considerably more hikers and a much busier hut.

Wildlife on the Trail

There are no leash requirement signs on the way up, but a few things worth knowing before you go. At some point the trail passes through a protection zone for black grouse. We didn’t see any, but it’s worth keeping in mind if your dog has strong prey instincts.

What we did hear: marmots. There’s always one on lookout duty, and when it senses something (like a dog) it stands up and whistles a warning. Loud, sharp, unmistakable. Simba heard it, considered it briefly, and continued walking. I was quietly very pleased about this, given that he is technically a hunting dog.
There are also alpine pastures around the hut (which actually was built for the shepherds – is it actually a good name in English for those taking care of the cows as well?), so expect cows and protecting dogs later in the season.

We went in mid-June and it was still cold enough that the cows hadn’t arrived yet, but from July onwards you’d be walking through working grazing land (there are not only cows /sheep but also). Keep that in mind for recall and leash decisions on the approach.

Arriving to the Hut

Just above the refuge there was still snow in mid-June not a lot, but enough to notice. Temperature dropped to around 2°C during the night. Come prepared for that, even if the afternoon forecast looks mild. The hut itself had everything we needed: a wood stove, dishes, an axe, plenty of dry wood, a table, candles, a prepared fire circle outside, a dry toilet, and
water. Water comes directly from a mountain stream through a wooden log and small tap beside the hut. We didn’t filter it and had no issues, although I always carry plenty of water anyway, just in case. If you’ve never used a dry toilet before, don’t expect plumbing. It does the job perfectly well, but bringing your own toilet paper is a good idea.

One thing first-time visitors often ask is whether you need to reserve an unguarded hut. You don’t. These refuges operate on a first-come, first-served basis, which means you should always have a backup plan if the hut happens to be full.

There were 14 sleeping places on the first floor. I forgot to photograph the inside (sorry!), but it was well-maintained and well-stocked. Whoever looks after Arbarétan – huge thank you!

We had the entire refuge to ourselves that night. Being there in the middle of June, on a weekday, certainly helped. During summer holidays or weekends, expect to share the space with other hikers.

In my experience, people who choose to spend a night in an unguarded mountain hut tend to be friendly and it’s easy to strike up a conversation. That said, not everyone is comfortable around dogs. If you’re travelling with one, be respectful of other guests, keep your dog under control, and always have a Plan B in case staying together isn’t possible.

Bonus: you can spot Mont Blanc, didn’t take a photo, you need to trust me on this one.

The Evening, the Night and 5:20 Situation

We made a fire outside, cooked dinner, and sat with it as the light dropped. Simba lay down next to me by the fire and stayed there. He usually takes time to settle in new places, reacting to sounds outside. Here he was completely calm from the start. I don’t know if it was the long walk, the cold air, or something about the place itself. Whatever it was, I’ll take it.

We lit the stove inside too, to keep the night manageable. I had brought a mattress cover so Simba wouldn’t lie directly on the hut’s mattress, along with a spare sleeping bag in case he wanted something warm to curl up on. In the end, neither turned out to be particularly necessary. My friend took it upon herself to keep the stove going throughout the night, getting up three times to add more wood. Between that and my 0°C comfort-rated sleeping bag, we were almost too warm.

Simba slept well. Until… he noticed the sun rising. At 5:20 he began announcing, with quite some enthusiasm, that the day had started and it was time for another adventure. I managed to negotiate a delay until 6:30 (which is my usual wake up time), at which point we admitted defeat and made breakfast: lyophilised porridge, coffee, cheese, ham, granola bars, tomatoes. Simba had his usual food, although I packed a little extra just in case. I also brought a few long-lasting chewing treats, which are always useful for helping him relax somewhere new.

The Morning Hike

It was early and quiet, so I let Simba explore on his own for a while. Then two hikers appeared on the horizon. I saw him clock them. There was a visible moment of deliberation, I could
almost watch the decision happening. But…he came back when I called.

That was the moment I was most proud of the whole trip

Was it scary?

Honestly? Not at all.

I was there with a friend and two dogs, which certainly changes the experience. More importantly, I don’t think the thought even crossed my mind. Everyone who walks several kilometres into the mountains to spend the night in an unguarded hut is there for exactly the same reason: to enjoy the peace.

That said, I’m probably a little biased. I spend a lot of time in the mountains, including ski touring and mountaineering, and I’ve slept in plenty of remote places, sometimes without carrying a tent. If this is your first experience, it may feel very different.

What I’d Bring Next Time

More tea bags. It was lovely to sit by the fire and sip a hot tea.

Arbarétan is a good first cabane. The approach is accessible, the hut is well-maintained, and the setting is worth the walk. If you’re thinking about a first overnight in an unguarded alpine shelter, with or without a dog, this is a solid place to start.

If you have any questions – leave me a comment or send an email.

For everything you need to know before going: → A night in a mountain cabane with your dog